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BYOB

Brewing your own beer is serious business. It is said that the egyptians who built the pyramids were paid one gallon of beer a day. This is a tribute to the great amount of labor it takes to build a culture that can survive. Brewing at paper street is done in one vessel, the open-topped keg.

Here you will find the plans for an open source brewery complete with BOM (bill of materials)

The specific style of brewing used here is called:

AGSVBIABNSNC
You can see a rough version of it here http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f11/single-vessel-all-electric-ns-nc-brewery... (oh no dead link!)

This stands for the following:

AG - All Grain

Many methods of brewing beer use pre-packaged malts. This method uses whole grains, malted barley to be specific.

SV - Single Vessel

Most home breweries use three vessels which can cost $400 apiece. This only uses one, made from a standard Sankey 15.5 gallon beer keg.

BIAB - Brew-in-a-Bag

An australian technique designed to conserve water and also has the advantage of reducing the number of vessels required. Grain is lowered into the one vessel once the temperature of the water reaches the "strike temperature" (the temperature at which you "strike" the water with the grain). This prevents the clean-up and load lifting associated with pumping hot water through multiple vessels.

Once the grain has sat in the bag of hot water for long enough (the so-called "mash"), it can be hung to dry and drain over the keg, and later recycled for the hot composting process.

NS - No Sparge

Sparging is the act of recirculating hot wort (hot pre-beer sugar water) through the mash (the time period during which hot water and grain have been brought into contact) in order to settle the grain bed and extract sugars from the grain into the wort. In so-called No Sparge, all the water you're going to use is already in the vessel and in BIAB the grain is already "settled" by the holes in the grain bag.

NC - No Chill

Yeast (the organism that convert sugars to alcohol and carbon dioxide) cannot be added at the high temperatures wort boils at, which would kill the yeast. Instead of using a wort chiller (copper tube to pump cold water to cool off hot wort), the wort sits overnight to cool and yeast is "pitched" (which simply means added) the following day. The theory of chilling wort has been primarily two-fold. To prevent the mythical "chill haze" and to prevent infections. Chilling was not common among ancient peoples and there is a growing body of rumor that most home brewers are just overthinking it.

Note that this also conserves water. The ideal no-chilling used here would be to drain the piping (for instance 10 gallons of) hot wort to two five gallon Cornelius kegs, where it should be safe.

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